The 2002 Extra Brut R.D. has always been one of the more restrained wines of the vintage. Today, a year after its first disgorgement, the 2002 appears to be gently moving into a more mature stage of its life. Candied apricot, dried flowers, mint, chamomile and lightly honeyed notes are all nicely woven together, but the evolution of the 2002 R.D. stands in stark contrast to that of most of the other top wines of the year. Two bottles I tasted recently were both disappointing, especially considering the high marks I gave this wine last year. Disgorged: November 21, 2014.

Beautiful sophistication and youthful beauty. While there is a certain knot device and distinct but faint RD tones thowards mushroom, truffle and mineral saltiness. Blooming in the glass and not unlike a young RD 1975, so at some point will this wine breathe sweetest chocolate and nut symphony. Last incredibly tied and grassy. How can disgorging affect so individual in the bottles?

Big names do not help if you are not familiar with a certain house style, and so I can understand everyone who dislikes Bollinger's 2002 RD Extra Brut, which at first sight reveals a matured if not an old wine displaying toffee, floral (hyacinths, narcissus, sage), vegetal and spicy aromas (oak, cannabis, frankincense, black bread) -- but almost no fruit (at least no fresh fruit). This wine was disgorged in March 2014, but just needs a lot of time in the glass to develop its complexity. On the palate this is a very pure, fresh, lively, firmly structured and almost ascetic wine with complexity, but almost no sensuality. Very distinctive style.