93

Antonio Galloni

Vinous

The 2016 Vintage is terrific. Rich, creamy and super-expressive, the 2016 is an absolute delight. All this fruit is from Roederer’s La Montagne estate, with Pinot Noir very much driving the blend. That comes through in a Champagne of notable textural resonance and breadth that grows with air. Hints of apricot, plum, spice and dried flowers caress the palate, all framed by a discreet touch of oak and an extra kick of texture from a few lots (5%) that underwent malolactic fermentation. This is a superb edition of the Vintage. The blend is 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay. Here, the richness of the warm summer very much comes through. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. 03/2024

92

Richard Juhlin

Richard Juhlin

Only Verzy and Chouilly with 33% oak barrel fermentation and 7-gram dosage. In the past, both Roederer Blanc de Blancs and Roederer Millésime were rich compositions from several villages and locations. Jean-Baptiste has refined the character by limiting himself to three villages for these two wines. As for the choice of pure Avize in the Blanc de Blancs, I have no objection, but as for the decision to only let Verzy stand for the entire carol of Pinot Noir in the vintage wine, I have my doubts. I think that the complexity becomes greater and more house-typical with several terroir colors. In any case, this wine is a little less developed and less complex than both Blanc de Blancs and Cristal 2016. In the past, the vintage was often the most finished at launch, but since 2008 it is often the other way around. Deep golden color. Slightly closed aroma and undeveloped taste, but both the aroma and taste have a lot to offer in the long run. There are already faint traces of chocolate, roasted notes, hazelnuts, strawberry jam and orange here. Brilliant and clear colour, lightly roasted and nuanced oak. Red currants, yellow plums, hazelnuts, milk chocolate, candied lemon, Granny Smith is most noticeable among the aromas. The texture is strikingly silky with a creamy mousse and at the same time with a salty and mineral sharpness. The minerality is striking and the attack is a bit harsh at the moment. Drink 2030–2045. 10/2024

95

Jeb Dunnuck

Jeb Dunnuck

The 2016 Champagne Vintage Brut is the new release and is composed of 70% Pinot Noir from Verzy and the rest Chardonnay from Chouilly. A slightly richer golden straw hue, it has a floral bouquet on the nose and is a very pretty vintage of this wine aromatically. It’s sappy with lemon confit and is salty throughout the palate, revealing the weight of the Pinot Noir but retaining wonderful freshness. This lovely wine is going to take some time to open aromatically, but it’s going to be worth the wait. Drink it over the coming 15 years. It’s a going to be a stunning wine for pairings. 7 gram per liter dosage in this wine and in the collection. 12/2024

96

James Suckling

James Suckling

Complex nose of restrained strawberries and lemon zest, with macerated flowers and shortbread. Full body and plenty of concentration, with pinprick mousse, long and chewy, integrated acidity and amazing length. Pinot noir and chardonnay. Drink or hold. 07/2024