Inky ruby. Pungent, primary aromas of black cherry, smoke and flowers. Then sappy, sweet and youthful, with impressive verve to the black fruit, violet pastille and licorice flavors. This youthfully clenched, focused wine really stains the palate. Finishes long and smoky, with a firm mineral spine and echoes of candied violet and cherry. Ogier also poured the '07 bottling and it's in a brooding state, slowly opening up to show bitter cherry, cassis and licorice qualities, with firm, gripping tannins and a smoky undertone. Hands off.

The 2009 Cote Rotie La Belle Helene is another perfect wine. Made in a completely different style than the more structured, mineral-laced 2010, the 2009 is a flamboyant, exuberant effort with nearly over-the-top ripeness and fruit. However, it is extremely supple, sexy and bursting with complexity, revealing notes of truffles, graphite, black raspberries, espresso roast, spice box, tapenade and bouquet garni. The wine’s richness, full-bodied, massive fruit impact and 50-second finish are amazing.