The 2011 Chablis Vaulorent is fresher and lighter on its feet than the Fourchaume. Hints of Riesling-inflected petrol, exotic white flowers, tropical fruit and lychee all flesh out in an impeccable, gracious Chablis loaded with personality. Easily one of the highlights among the 2011s from Fevre, the Vaulorent impresses for its subtle, understated personality. There is a lot to admire here.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent 2011 from William Fèvre is much more reserved on the nose with faint touches of almond and hazelnut, perhaps more Montmains in style. The palate is balanced with orange cordial, lime and hints of papaya. The acidity is nicely judged, although it needs more tension and complexity toward the finish. This is probably the one Chablis premier cru that I was expecting a little more from.