Deep red. Explosively perfumed nose offers a kaleidoscopic bouquet of red berries, candied cherry, orange marmalade and fresh flowers. Silky and deep in raspberry and cherry flavor, but with an airy, graceful character reminiscent of a highfalootin' Burgundy. A remarkably concentrated, elegant wine that finishes with superb, seamless length. There is absolutely no excess fat on this.

Showing the more structured, savory and austere side of the vintage, the 2005 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape will be 20-30 year wine. Offering up lots of darker fruits, gunpowder, ground pepper, truffles and licorice, it has full-bodied richness, a beautiful texture and no shortage of tannin or acid, both of which make themselves known on the finish. This is a wine to hide in the cellar for at least another 4-5 years, and it will still be going strong in 2030. I don't see this matching the 1995 or 2007, but it's not far off.